The drinking dens are spilling out
  There's staggering in the square
  There's lads and lasses falling about
  And a crackling in the air
  Down around the dungeon doors
  The shelters and the queues
  Everbody's looking for
  Somebody's arms to fall into
  And it's what it is
  It's what it is now
  
  There's frost on the graves and the monuments
  But the taverns are warm in towm
  People curse the government
  And shovel hot food down
  The lights are out in city hall
  The castle and the keep
  The moon shines down upon it all
  The legless and asleep
  
  (Chorus)
  And it's cold on the tollgate
  With the wagons creeping through
  Cold on the tollgate
  God knows what I could do with you
  And it's what it is
  It's what it is now
  
  The garrison sleeps in the citadel
  With the ghosts and the ancient stones
  High up on the parapet
  A Scottish piper stands alone
  And high on the wind
  The highland drums begin to roll
  And something from the past just comes
  And stares into my soul
  
  (Chorus)
  And it's cold on the tollgate
  With the Caledonian blues
  Cold on the tollgate
  God knows what I could do with you
  And it's what it is
  It's what it is now
  What it is
  It's what it is now
  
  There's a chink of light, there's a burning wick
  There's a lantern in the tower
  Wee Willie Winkie with a candlestick
  Still writing songs in the wee wee hours
  On Charlotte Street I take
  A walking stick from my hotel
  The ghost of Dirty Dick
  Is still in search of Little Nell
  And it's what it is
  It's what it is now
  Oh it's what it is
  What it is now